“My face above the water,
my feet can’t touch the ground,
and it feels like
I can see the sands on the horizon
everytime you are not around.
I’m slowly drifting away
wave after wave,
I’m slowly drifting
and it feels like I’m drowning,
pulling against the stream.”
Raindrops, clear, warm, keep falling on my head as we arrive in Strand. The sand wet and sticky to my feet, the sky gray like the walls of the houses behind me.
I hold my breath as i plunge into the ocean. silence. The surrounding world moves into another perspective, gets small, unimportant. There is just water, nature, my breath. The sun shining out between the clouds, grasping for attention.
I take my first wave.
Flying over the ocean, the saltwater burning on my skin, raindrops falling down.
The sun, powerful, last raindrops sparkling in the air until the clouds clear the sky.
Photos: Stoked Surf School